Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa

A tiny craft beer bar in Trastevere whose name translates roughly to 'What did you come here for?' — a self-deprecating nod that captures its attitude perfectly. The space is barely larger than a living room, crammed with taps pouring a rotating selection of Italian and international craft beers. When it overflows (which is nightly), drinkers spill onto the cobblestones with their glasses. There's no food, no cocktails, no pretension — just excellent beer, knowledgeable bartenders, and conversation with whoever ends up standing next to you. It has been a Trastevere institution long before craft beer went mainstream in Rome.