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Rome's most rewarding food market for visitors who want to eat well and cheaply among locals. The modern covered structure replaced the old open-air market in 2012 but kept the neighbourhood's working-class food culture intact. Mordi e Vai fills crusty panini with slow-cooked trippa and picchiapò. Casa Manco does exemplary pizza al taglio. FoodBox fries the city's best supplì. Le Mani in Pasta sells fresh pasta to cook or eat on the spot. The produce stalls are where Testaccio's nonnas actually shop, and the free communal seating by the coffee bar makes lingering easy.
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